EXPANDING THE LIMITS OF SILK WEAVING: TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCEMENTS WITH THE FRENCH JACQUARD LOOM IN THE 19TH CENTURY
Keywords:
French silk, jacquard loom, pattern card, harness cord, shaft monture, warp density, and number of crochetsAbstract
The French silk weaving industry in the 19th century experienced significant technological innovations through changes made in the jacquard silk weaving loom. This paper explores the design of different types of jacquard looms and pattern cards used in France during the 19th century. The study highlights the changes in the shape, direction, and thickness of crochet and the shape and material of pattern cards. The research shows that improvements were made to the jacquard loom by adding harness cord and shaft monture to increase pattern width, reduce the weight of the pattern card, and expand the pattern template while maintaining the warp density and number of crochets. This resulted in the steady progress of the silk weaving industry. Through a literature review, data on the technical principles and pattern card specifications of different types of French jacquard looms in the 19th century were analyzed. The study shows that the French silk weaving industry continually optimized and improved the jacquard loom and pattern card design, resulting in significant advancements and allowing for more diverse designs of silk jacquard products in the industry This new theoretical system of silk jacquard, which was independent from the East, influenced changes in silk fabric patterns at the time and had far-reaching effects on the reform and modernization of equipment and talent training methods in Japan, China, and other countries